Oh Naples, how I miss you. The best margherita of my life for less than 6 euros. Deep fried delights. Indulgent sweet treats on every corner.
Naples is, of course, one of the world’s great cities for food lovers. In this blog, I’ll share 10 must-try dishes while you’re in the city, and where to find them. At the bottom you’ll find a Naples restaurant map of all the places mentioned.
What’s in this blog:
- Margherita and marinara pizzas
- Fried pizza (Pizza Fritta)
- Spaghetti alla puttanesca
- Neapolitan Ragu
- Pasta alla Genovese
- Frittatina di pasta
- Pasta and potatoes (Pasta e Patate)
- Polpette (Neapolitan meatballs)
- Neapolitan Panino
- Go on a Naples food tour
- Go for a cooking lesson
- Naples restaurant map
Neapolitan pizza
If you’re visiting Naples, you don’t need me to tell you about Neapolitan pizza. It’s likely one of your motivations for going! Home to much of the world’s finest pizza, visiting at least one (or two, or three…) of the city’s historic pizzerias is a must when you’re in the city.
Naples is the birthplace of two of the most famous types of pizza::
Margherita: Tomato, basil and mozzarella – three ingredients, said to represent the colours of Italy. So simple. So delicious. Not least because of Neapolitan tomatoes – grown on the fertile volcanic soil of the slopes of vesuvius. Flavoursome, full but not too watery, and perfect for pizza sauce. In fact, true Neapolitan pizza can only be made using two types of tomato: pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio and San Marzano, both from the Campania region.
Marinara: Almost as delicious, even more historic, but not quite as famous as the margherita. This simple pizza (tomato, oil, oregano and garlic) is the world’s oldest tomato-based pizza.
Best spots for authentic Neapolitan pizza
Naples has no shortage of great places to try pizza. Most pizzerias in the city will do an excellent, authentic dish – but a few are especially famous.
The most historic is Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, the world’s oldest pizzeria. But just a couple of minutes away, on Via dei Tribunali (also known as via della pizza), you’ll find many other (better) pizzerias. Gino e Toto Sorbillo is one of the most popular. Pizzeria Attanasio is also excellent, as is Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo, where Bill Clinton once ate.
Elsewhere in the city, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele is the most famous. If you want to visit here, be prepared to queue. Starita in the more residential district of Materdei is also famous for high quality pizza.
Remember when shopping for a place to eat that a margherita should always be €6 or less – €6.50 at the absolute most.
Fried pizza (Pizza Fritta)
Though it’s never taken off outside of Naples in the same way the classic margherita pizza has, the Pizza Fritta is none-the-less an absolute must try. Folded like a calzone and deep fried (rather than cooked in a pizza oven), it feels so wrong. But it tastes so right.
The classic fried pizza is made with ricotta, pork and pepper, but many spots will now offer a variety of fillings.
Where to try fried pizza (Pizza Fritta) in Naples
Gino e Toto Sorbillo, a historic pizzeria on the Via della Pizza (officially called Via dei Tribunali) is one of the most popular spots for fried pizza. This was the family’s first restaurant, but you’ll now find a few over the city.
La Masardona, close to the main train station, is also a historic, famous and popular place to try fried pizza. Passione di Sofi on Via Toledo also does high quality, cheap takeaway Pizza Fritta.
Spaghetti alla puttanesca
What trip to Italy would be complete without a good plate of spaghetti? Spaghetti alla puttanesca originated in Naples in the 20th century – according to legend, as a quick dish in the city’s brothels. It’s made with tomatoes (those delicious, Campanian tomatoes grown in volcanic soil…), olives, capers, anchovies, garlic and pepperoncino.
Where to try Spaghetti alla Puttanesca in Naples
You’ll find this dish in many traditional trattorias and pizzerias across Naples, such as Trattoria de Nennella, famous for its singing waiters, and Antica Trattoria del Nilo on Spaccanapoli.
Neapolitan Ragu
Credit: Marzia Bertelli licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
In Italy, Naples competes with Bologna for the most famous plate of ragu. Unlike the Bolognese speciality, Neapolitan ragu (or ragu alla napoletana) is much more tomatoey, with larger chunks of meat, and often using red wine instead of white in the sauce.
In Naples Ragu isn’t always served with pasta, either. You’ll also find it on its own, with bread to dip in, or sometimes even with meatballs (see ‘Polpette’).
The best place to eat ragu in Naples
When it comes to ragu in Naples, there’s only one king: Tandem. It was the first restaurant dedicated to ragu in the city (both Neapolitan and Genovese) and it now has several locations. Popular with locals and tourists alike, this is the one restaurant we absolutely had to go back to while we were in the city. Don’t miss it.
You’ll also find good quality ragu at many traditional trattorias in the city, such as la Taverna dei Buongustaio in the Spanish Quarter.
Pasta alla Genovese
Beef and onions, simmered together for hours – pasta alla Genovese is Neapolitan ragu’s equally delicious sibling. Big chunks of meat and caramelised onions melt together perfectly. It’s a heavy, almost sweet, utterly irresistible delight.
Despite the name, the dish originates from Naples. Legend says it was invented by a chef from Genoa living in the city, or perhaps a Neopolitan chef working on a street called “dei Genovesi”.
Now, Pasta alla Genovese is one of the most traditional dishes of the city of Naples. It’s often served with either ziti or rigatoni pasta, and sprinkled with grated cheese.
The best place to eat Pasta alla Genovese in Naples
As with Neapolitan ragu, Tandem is the best place to try Pasta alla Genovese in the city. Oh, how I wish I could go back. It’s also served in most traditional restaurants.
Frittatina di pasta
Ok, so you’ve tried the fried pizza. But what about the fried pasta? Yes, seriously.
Perhaps not Naples’ most famous food export, but definitely one of its best, this dish literally translates as ‘Pasta Omelette’. It’s a traditional starter found in many Neopolitan restaurants. Cheesy pasta, battered, breaded and deep fried. It’s creamy, so indulgent, and so, so good. Don’t miss your chance to try it.
Where to try frittatina di pasta in Naples
Frittatina di pasta is served as a starter in many traditional pizzerias. We had a delicious one at Pizzeria Decumani, on Via dei Tribunali.
It’s also served as street food in many places. The frittatina at Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo is especially famous.
Pasta and potatoes (Pasta e Patate)
A lesser known Neapolitan staple that lays carb upon carb, and smothers both in smoked provola cheese. A simple combination that goes back centuries, when it was widely used by the poor in Naples as an easy meal made of cheap ingredients, and a way to use up leftover ingredients. Gooey, hearty, warming and filling, Pasta e Patate is another must-try dish when you’re in Naples.
Where to try Pasta e Patate in Naples
Quartieri Spagnoli (the Spanish Quarter) is the best neighbourhood to try this dish. Most of the trattorias in the area will cook you up a plate – we particularly enjoyed la Taverna dei Buongustaio.
Polpette (Neapolitan meatballs)
Neapolitan meatballs, smothered in gorgeous tomato sauce. In Naples, meatballs aren’t always paired with pasta – instead, you either dip bread in the sauce, or eat them in a sandwich.
Where to eat Polpette in Naples
You’ll find Polpette everywhere in Naples – as street food, as a starter in pizzerias and trattorias, as a sandwich. Try them in Tandem, topped with their wonderful ragu sauce.
Neapolitan Panino
Called pagnottiello, a Neopolitan panino is a unique, greasy joy of a sandwich. It’s not like a normal sandwich, with fillings. Instead, these panini feature ingredients cooked inside the dough. Usually it will be cooked with cheese and various types of ham. It’s well worth a try.
You’ll find pagnottiello at most street food spots in the old city.
Go on a Naples food tour
If you’re visiting Naples, a great way to explore the city’s culinary delights is to go on a food tour. Why not try this extremely highly rated Street Food Walking Tour with a Local Guide?
Go for a cooking lesson
If simply trying the food isn’t enough for you, Naples offers a number of cooking lessons for tourists. Learn how to make authentic Neapolitan pizza, or take a highly recommended pasta-making class.
Naples restaurant map
Below the map you’ll find a summary of all the restaurants highlighted to try Naples’ classic dishes!
For authentic pizza
- Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba
- Gino e Toto Sorbillo (also famous for its pizza fritta!)
- Pizzeria Attanasio
- Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo (also famous for its frittatina di pasta)
- L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
- Starita
- Pizzeria Decumani
For other dishes
La Masardona – for fried pizza (Pizza Fritta)
Passione di Sofi – for fried pizza (Pizza Fritta)
Trattoria de Nennella – for traditional dishes including spaghetti alla puttanesca.
Antica Trattoria del Nilo for traditional dishes including spaghetti alla puttanesca.
Tandem – for the best rage in Naples, pasta alla genovese, and polpette
La Taverna dei Buongustaio – traditional dishes including Neapolitan ragu and pasta e patate.
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