Naples has so much to offer. You could spend weeks in the city, and there’d still be more to do. Few places have such a varied, rich history that is present all around you.
But many of Naples’ most interesting landmarks go under the radar. Here are seven hidden gems and more unusual sights in Naples.
1. The unexploded bomb of Gesu Nuovo
Gesu Nuovo was the most beautiful church we visited in Naples – but you wouldn’t expect it from the outside.
Before it was a church, it was a 15th century palace, and when it was eventually turned into a church, it kept the original austere facade. Diamond shaped black stones cover the facade. It’s impressive, imposing – but not pretty. And it gives no clue as to what’s inside.
The sober, imposing facade of Gesu Nuovo gives way to pure opulence
In your face opulence, wall to ceiling art, a magnificent painted dome. Gesu Nuovo’s interior is simply amazing. But that’s not the reason it’s on this list.
In the church you’ll find the tomb of Giuseppe Moscate, a local doctor who helped the poor of the city, and was canonised by the Catholic Church. He’s an icon in Naples. The church features a small museum about him, including a reproduction of his desk. Alongside this is the shell of an unexploded bomb.
The bomb has been held in the church ever since World War Two, when people were sheltering inside. When the bomb was dropped on the church, it crashed into the chapel dedicated to Dr Moscate, where many people huddled. But it didn’t explode, and all those people survived.
This was seen as a miracle – perhaps as the doctor protecting the people of Naples, even in death. The shell is held on as a symbol of good luck. (Google Maps)
2. Experience Naples’ music heritage at Napulitanata
Traditional Neapolitan music is hauntingly beautiful. Known as canzone napoletana, it dates from the 19th century. Many of its songs are about a longing for Naples that no longer existed, written in the climate of the fast-modernising world of the 1800s, and the beginnings of mass-migration to the USA.
Neapolitan music has been passed down for generations, and spread to the USA with many of Naples’ migrants, helping to define the perception of Italian culture in the USA that still persists. The most famous song from the genre is O’ Sole Mio, which has also been remade by Elivs Presley as Now Or Never. And not to mention it’s a song which literally went to space – it was sung by Yuri Gagarin while he orbited the Earth, the first man in space.
The genre is also fascinating for its use of the Neapolitan language – the historic dialect of the city, which is considered at risk of extinction.But despite this rich cultural heritage, canzone napoletana isn’t easily found in the city, at least by tourists.
One organisation, Napulitanata, is aiming to change that, keeping the culture alive and spreading it to new ears. They do this every night, in a small music hall, the only one dedicated to the genre. It’s put together by a wildly talented, passionate group of local musicians, and is one of the best things we did in Naples, and deserves far more recognition. You can book tickets on its website.
3. Discover little-known Neapolitan artists at el Museo del Novecento
Castel Sant’Elmo is a landmark that should already be on your to-do list. A monumental mediaeval fortress, which offers the best views in the city, tourists flock here.
But many people miss the modern art gallery at the top, found inside the historic high prison building: Museo del Novecento. This small gallery showcases a rich variety of works by Neapolitan artists from the 20th century.
The gallery opened in 2010 and does a brilliant job of showcasing Neapolitan art and artistic movements throughout the 20th century, ranging from traditional landscapes to futurism. There are more than 200 works, by more than 100 local artists who you’ve likely never heard of.
For fans of art, it’s an excellent way to discover more about the city’s artistic heritage, that you might not have seen elsewhere. Included in your ticket to Castel Sant’Elmo, it’s one of Naples’ best hidden gems.
4. The bronze statue of Pulcinella
Found at the corner of Via dei Tribunali and a narrow alley is this small, charming bronze bust of Pulcinella – Naples’ figure of good luck.
Pulcinella was a character in Neapolitan puppetry from as early as the 17th century. It’s usually a man from the bottom of the social scale, wearing a pointed hat and a black mask.
Over the years, Pulcinella has become one of the most endearing symbols of city: someone who is downtrodden but who always comes out of things with a smile, known for his wit and charm. In many ways, the character embodies the city.
This statue, tucked away in Centro Storico’s narrow streets, was built by Neapolitan artist Lello Esposito. Rub its nose for good luck. (Google Maps)
5. The staircase of Palazzo Mannajuolo
You don’t often find staircases mentioned in travel blogs. But this is no ordinary staircase. Found in Palazzo Mannajuolo, in the desirable Chiaia neighbourhood, it’s an exceptional piece of art nouveau architecture, shaped like an oval, seeming to loop and loop around forever.
If you do decide to visit the staircase, note that the Palazzo Mannajuolo is an apartment building where people live. This means that you can’t climb the staircase. But this is a famous piece of architecture and the concierges are used to tourists coming to looking the staircase. They’ll be happy to let you through and for you to take pictures, as long as you don’t actually go up the stairs. (Google Maps).
6. Rusting Vespas and ancient cisterns in the Galleria Borbonica
The Galleria Borbonica is a tunnel running underneath Naples, which was meant to be an escape route for King Ferdinand II in case of revolution. The project was never finished, and for many years it lay abandoned, until World War Two, when it was used as a shelter.
After the war, the war was used by the regional government to store seized motorbikes and cars. Now, you can visit the tunnel, and see the enigmatic, apocalyptic sight of old Italian vehicles rusting in an underground setting. It’s quite unlike anywhere else in Naples.
Before becoming a tourist destination, Galleria Borbonica was also used as an illegal dump. So much rubbish was placed in the tunnel, and adjoining passages, that it’s still being cleared up decades later.
Note that to visit the Galleria Borbonica, you need to book a guided tour, which take place Fri-Sun. Visit website.
7. The chilling Fontanelle cemetery – a man made cave filled with millions of human bones
Currently closed for structural work.
The Fontanelle cemetery is one of Naples’ most unusual, and unsettling sights. It’s essentially a giant man made cave, which has been used to store bodies for hundreds of years.
It was first put to use in the 17th century, when Naples was hit by the plague. Thousands of bodies were laid to rest here, most of them nameless. In the following centuries it was used to bury the city’s poor, and it was used to store bodies after the cholera epidemic in the 19th century.
There’s another fascinating aspect to Fontanelle’s history. In the 19th century, a spontaneous cult of devotion sprung up – the ‘poor souls cult’. People flocked to the skulls, cleaned them, talked to them, and brought them flowers. They said they were paying respect to those who had none in life.
The cemetery was shut in the 1960s, because it was felt the cult was morphing into fetishisation. It was reopened in 2010. Tens of thousands of skeletons are resting here. More than eight million human bones.
Note: As of 2024, the Fontanelle Cemetery is closed for structural work
For my full guide of all the top things to do in Naples, visit here.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Naples on GPSmyCity.
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