One of Capri’s more unusual and lesser known attractions are the Phoenician Steps. The views are exceptional, and the history of these steps winding their way up the steep Monte Solaro is fascinating. But be warned: It’s not an easy climb!
Here I provide some more information about the steps, their fascinating history, and what to do once you arrive in Anacapri.
What are the Phoenician Steps?
Anacapri is the highest town on the island of Capri. So there’s no way around it – to get there, you’ve got to get uphill.
Nowadays you can make this journey by car or bus. But until relatively recently, the only route linking Anacapri to the rest of the island were the Phoenician Steps. These are around 1,000 steps, uneven in places, which climb up the side of Monte Solaro.
They’re still used by tourists to this day, and are the best way to walk to Anacapri from Capri Town or Marina Grande.
The history of Phoenician Steps
As well as being the best way to reach Anacapri on foot, these steps are a remarkable historic landmark. Despite their name, they were actually built by the Ancient Greeks in the 7th Century BC. They’re almost 3,000 years old.
Up until the 19th century, the Phoenician Steps were the only connection between the town of Anacapri and the rest of the island. Imagine, as you climb, all the people who’ve used these steps to transport goods, news, and stories, over so many centuries.
For example, Anacapri’s residents would have to walk down the steps to collect drinking water from the Truglio spring in Marina Grande, and then carry it all the way back up again. They did this for hundreds of years. Later, when tourists started visiting Anacapri in the 18th century, donkeys would carry the travellers’ trunks up the Phoenician Steps to the town.
Are the Phoenician Steps worth climbing?
Climbing the Phoenician Steps isn’t easy—you’ll need to be reasonably fit, and those with weak knees might struggle. The steps, worn by centuries of use, are uneven in places, making the descent just as challenging as the ascent. Wear good footwear.
It takes a while (up to an hour) to climb the steps. Unless you’re incredibly fit you’ll need at least a few breathers. And even if you are, you’ll want to stop and admire the view.
Still, if you have the time, the experience is absolutely worth it. Unlike many places in Capri, the steps are often quiet, offering a rare chance to soak in the island’s history and beauty without the crowds. And as you climb, the views only get better, rewarding you with some of the most breathtaking vistas on the island.
Where do the Phoenician Steps start and end?
The Phoenician Steps start a short walk from Marina Grande. From the port, you walk along Via Palazzo a Mare, where you’ll find a sign to the steps. They finish at the edge of Anacapri, close to Villa San Michele – Axel Munthe Museum.
What to do when you get to Anacapri?
When you first arrive in Anacapri, your legs will likely be jelly. The first thing we did was sit down, have a drink, and rest. But once your energy levels are back up, there are two things I’d recommend doing in Anacapri.
The Monte Solaro chairlift
The Monte Solaro chairlift whisks you to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point on Capri. It was one of the absolute highlights of our entire trip to Italy. It lasts about 15 minutes, and the journey up is amazing. I’ll never forget sitting there, my legs dangling ten feet above the ground, as I watched the bright blue see and white dotted houses. The whole world felt a million miles away.
I wouldn’t recommend it for someone with vertigo of course. But as someone who is slightly scared of heights, if you’re slightly apprehensive, I’d say: go for it.
The mosaic floor of San Michele church
Elsewhere in Anacapri is this church, which is something of a hidden gem. From the outside it’s pretty unassuming, but inside, it has the most remarkable mosaic floor.
It dates from the 18th century, depicting Adam and Eve being expelled from the Garden of Eden. You can climb up a rickety spiral staircase to view the mosaic from above. As well as being utterly stunning, it also includes some pretty imaginative depictions of animals…
So there you have it, the Phoenician Steps. If you want to get away from the crowds, or avoid those long bus queues, it’s a great way to travel between Anacapri and Marina Grande or Capri Town. And their history and the views make them a destination in their own right.
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