The Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza is one of Spain’s most fascinating buildings, and in my opinion doesn’t get the attention it deserves. In its time it has gone from pleasure palace, to military fortress, to the parliament for the autonomous region of Aragon.
It’s one of the best examples of Hispano-Islamic architecture, and one of the best things to do in the wonderful city in Zaragoza.
What is the Aljafería Palace?
The Aljafería Palace is a fortified Islamic palace dating from the 11th century. Throughout its history it has changed hands – and you can feel this when you explore the palace, which has an astonishing variety of styles throughout. In fact, inside Aljafería’s imposing fortified walls there isn’t just one palace, but three, each of them an important seat of power from throughout Spain’s history.
The history of the Aljafería Palace
The Aljafería Palace comes from the era of the taifas – a period where much of Spain was ruled by several small, independent Muslim Kingdoms, including the taifa of Zaragon.
In the 11th century, the king the taifa of Zaragoza was called Abu Yaafar Ahmad ibn Hud al-Muqtadir. He wanted to build a palace outside of the city walls, so that he and his family would have somewhere to relax away from politics. Fair enough.
The palace was built on the site of an older watchtower – the Troubador Tower, which remains the oldest part of the palace and dates from the Emirate of Cordoba in the 9th century. The palace was a place of leisure, and it was called the Qasr Al-suru – the palace of joy.
But the joy wouldn’t last. In the 12th century, Zaragoza was conquered by the Christian king Alfonso I, and Aljafería became the residence of the Christian kings of Aragon. Over the centuries, numerous changes were made to the building. Since then, it has had a number of uses. During the Spanish Inquisition, it was a prison.
Nowadays, as well as a popular tourist destination, the palace is home to the modern Parliament of Aragon, an autonomous community of Spain.
If you’re visiting Zaragoza, make sure to check out my guide to all 25+ museums in Zaragoza.
What makes the Aljafería Palace so special?
The Aljafería Palace is unique: It’s the only large building left in the Hispanic Islamic style from the era of the taifas. This makes it architecturally very important. It’s also one of the finest Islamic-era buildings left in Spain. It doesn’t get the attention of the Alhambra in Granada, or the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba – but along with those two buildings, it’s seen as one of the three best examples of Hispano-Muslim architecture.
For me, though, what makes Aljafería so special is its variety. From the outside, it’s an imposing military fortress, surrounded by a moat in the middle of a lovely park. But inside are three distinct palaces.
Most remarkable is the original taifa palace. This part of the complex is the most beautiful, filled with intricate geometric carvings and beautiful examples of Islamic architecture, as well as a peaceful courtyard (Patio de Santa Isabel, below) and a small prayer room, featuring inscriptions from the Quran.
Elsewhere you’ll find the Medieval Christian palace, which was added onto the original palace by Pedro IV in the 14th Century, and the palace of the Catholic Kings. Throughout these two palaces you’ll find stunning examples of Mudejar architecture – a unique blend of Islamic and christian architecture that dates from the Reconquista. One of the best is the lavish Throne Room, part of the palace of the Catholic Kings, with a stunning coffered ceiling. You can also visit the modern parliament.
How to visit the Aljafería Palace?
The palace is in the centre of Zaragoza, and one of the must-see sights if you’re in the city. It’s open most days – though it’s sometimes closed on Friday morning and Thursday when parliament is in session. It costs just a few euros to enter, and they offer tours in Spanish and English, as well as audioguides for an extra three euros for a self-guided visit.
Visit website. Open most days 10am-2pm and 4.30pm-8pm – but check website, as it’s sometimes shut when parliament is in session. 5€ entry. 3€ audioguides.
If you’re visiting Zaragoza, I’ve put together a guide of the main sights I enjoyed in the city.
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